There is something refreshing about the Hawaiian culture-how it kidnaps you from any worries or consumptions, into a time and place where you are in your purest, most natural and happiest form- surrounded by the most beautiful of nature. It’s a step back in time. During these moments, there is no good excuse for make up, nice clothes, or technology because you are far too immersed into the beauty around you to need it. Ocean, lava, mud, waterfalls, vibrant vegetation, exotic fruits, wild animals, the intensity of the most cheerful sun. Suddenly, I understand the Polynesian culture and their connection with nature so much more. Such a willingness to acknowledge and be among such natural beauty and phenomenons could definitely be felt as spiritual.
At night we fall asleep to the singing of the Cogui Frog and barking of the geckos and in the morning, we wake up to the sound of the chirping birds and whistling wind. Occasionally, it rains a tropical downpour and the smell of hot, wet pavement leaks into our room to wake us up. Windows and doors are invitingly left wide open at all times and when we return from a long day, our local host has brought home lychees, passion fruits, star fruits, apple bananas, and more from the local farm he works on. We squint at the sourness but continue eating nonetheless. They’re so good.
We wander down to a local bay to swim and nearly a half a mile out we are surrounded by a school of wild Nai’a or Spinner Dolphins who have come to rest. Resting for these friendly creatures looks a lot more like play, spinning and jumping all around us. They swim right underneath us. Each time we hold our breath and go under the water we hear their song, clicking and communicating constantly. The locals tell us there are dolphin whisperers who visit the bay often. They tell of how they walk into the water, sing to the dolphins, and welcome kisses and play from these amazing creatures who actually remember them.
As we swim in various beaches, Green Sea Turtles pop their heads up all around us as they take a break from munching the algae on the rocks below. When it’s time to rest, they join us on the beach as the only sea turtles in the world to share a favourite human pastime- basking in the sun. They lie flat with heavy eyes on the beach, occasionally lifting their lids, gazing at bystanders with what appears to be annoyance. They don’t move. They aren’t scared. They’re as chill as the humans living on the island.
Driving south on the big island, we enter a heavy vog- a type of fog that occurs from the sulfer dioxide and gases that have been emitted from an erupted volcano. We keep our eyes peeled for large cracks in the road from it’s initial eruption. As the sun goes down and the road gets dark, a heavy glow of red lies in the distance. Lava. It runs down the south west side of the island from multiple fissures, putting on quite the performance as it pours into the ocean- a large flame and gases appearing above it. We can’t get close enough to feel it but the sky is lit just enough for us to understand it’s outrageous heat and devastation.
For two weeks, we had sand in the weirdest of places and our hair was stuck in waves of salt. We were sticky with sweat and wearing clothes that were covered in yesterdays adventures. We traveled and lodged low budget but found this brought the most riches, eating from local markets, meeting wonderful residents, and entertaining ourselves with the simplicity of catching waves and letting them roll us around at their break or trekking through jungles and waterfalls of the lushest greens we had ever seen. They seemed so thick and full of leaves that you could catch yourself wondering what creatures have gone undiscovered. If ever a place a dinosaur could still be found, it’d have to be here.
There’s another beautiful side to Hawaii. There is the Hawaii that is Waikiki and resort beaches. Sparkly and relaxing, full of firework shows and striped umbrellas, towel boys and expensive excursions. There is nothing wrong with this Hawaii as it too has a way of uniting everyone with the islands beauty and chill vibes. Families from all over the world, laugh and play in the same natural beauties we’ve enjoyed.
At the core of everything Hawaii is the spirit of aloha. While there is many meanings for this word in Hawaiian, it ultimately refers to love, compassion, and caring. All of the people and adventures this trip welcomed us with seemed to embody ‘aloha’ and because of that I think it’s safe to say we leave the islands of Hawaii full of the spirit of aloha, bringing it back home with us to Amsterdam.
A hui hou, Hawaii. Until we meet again.
Mahalo.
More stories and photos of swimming with Wild Nai’a, Hawaiian Spinner Dolphins, here.